Depending on the tide, this may be the time to check the mud flats off Panamá Viejo (the ruins of the first Spanish city on the Pacific) for shorebirds and wading birds, gulls and terns, which are often found in abundance. The tidal range of the upper Bay of Panama is over 20 feet, resulting in an extraordinary intertidal zone of major importance to migrating shorebirds. On the way to the Juan Díaz mangroves we will check tidal waterways in Costa del Este for the Southern Lapwing and Cocoi Heron. There are many specialties in the vicinity of the Juan Díaz mangroves and we will search for Black-bellied Whistling Duck, Pearl Kite, and Straight-billed Woodcreeper. A jaguarundi was seen here on our last trip.

We will have lunch on our way to Gamboa and stop for a visit to the Miraflores Locks of the Panama Canal. We will check Summit Ponds and Plantation Road as we cross the Continental Divide.

Overnight at Gamboa Rainforest Resort. We plan to stay in one of the refurbished villas, originally built in the 1930s and 40s for Panama Canal administrators and their families.

Day 3, Saturday, March 5^th. Pipeline Road, Gamboa. After an early breakfast, we head to the nearby Pipeline Road. Pipeline Road was constructed during WW II and is justly famous for the variety of birds that can be seen less than an hour from a major metropolitan area. As part of the watershed of the Panama Canal, the forest is protected, yet accessible. We start birding at the marshes at the entrance to the Ammo Dump where we can find the Wattled Jacana, Black-striped Sparrow, Black-throated Mango, White-throated Crake, and various species of ducks and parrots. Driving a short distance along the shore of Gatun Lake, we reach the park entrance and hear the whistled call of the Green Shrike-Vireo and the snapping of Golden-collared Manakins at their lek. Walking along Pipeline Road we pass through changing habitats and cross several small streams. Antbirds, woodpeckers, trogons, tanagers, caciques, flycatchers are in abundance as well as birds of prey seen overhead. Depending on the condition of Pipeline Road, we may pack a lunch and attempt to proceed further onto the Caribbean side. Alternatively, we’ll return to Gamboa for lunch and a siesta. We may return to Summit Ponds for Boat-billed Herons, kingfishers and walk along the abandoned roadbed there.Returning to the most productive sites is always an option.Overnight at Gamboa Rainforest Resort. Day 4, Sunday, March 6th. Flight to Cana in the Darién National Park. We’ll do some early morning birding in Gamboa before heading to Gelabert Domestic Airport (the former US Air Force Base, Albrook). On the way to the airport, we plan a stop at the Neotropical Raptor Center established by the Peregrine Fund for the captive breeding of endangered raptors, especially the Harpy Eagle. While waiting for our chartered AeroPerlas flight at the airport, we usually discover a number of shorebirds in the nearby ditch and field.

The flight to Cana, usually aboard a Twin Otter aircraft, takes around an hour, landing on the grass airstrip about midday. The weight limit for checked baggage is 25 pounds per person; additional bags may be left in Panama and available on the bus when we return to the city. After flying over the Bay of Panama, the vast rainforest of the Darién stretches to the horizon beneath us. From the aircraft White Hawks and Great Green Macaws are often seen flying above the green canopy.

The Cana field station lies on a hillside, occupied by English and then French mining interests from 1882-1912. Indians led the Spanish to the gold found here in the 16th century and as many as 20,000 people lived and worked the gold deposits at Cana in the 17th century. More recently, a Canadian/US mining company conducted further exploration, but for now gold mining is a distant memory.

Individual guest rooms with twin beds are in a bunkhouse; separate buildings contain a dining room, kitchen, and staff quarters. Accommodations are rustic, but comfortable. The WCs are shared and the showers lack hot water. Electricity is provided by generator after dusk for a few hours each night. Most of the local staff of Afro- Dariens and Wounaan Indians live at the village of Boca de Cupe on the Tuira River, two days on foot from Cana. These Darién natives are intimately familiar with their environment, work hard, prepare excellent meals over wood burning fires, and do a great job of maintaining the field station and mountain camp under adverse conditions with minimal resources.

From the moment you arrive in Cana, you will be treated to a succession of rare and wonderful birds. On the short walk from the airstrip, expect to see everything from the common Slaty Spinetails, Giant Cowbirds, and Flame-rumped Tanagers to the spectacular Blue and Yellow Macaws, Swallow Tanagers, and Golden-headed Manakins. One hummingbird after another speeds over the firecracker bushes, while scanning the bare branches of the giant trees will reveal becards, flycatchers, cotingas. Overhead kites, macaws and parrots cruise. With only short forays on the trails heading in every direction, you will be kept busy recording sightings of trogons, woodpeckers, jacamars, cuckoos, motmots, caciques not to mention the vireos, warblers, and tanagers beginning their spring journey to North America.

As we settle in for the first night, the only sounds will be of tinamous, nightjars, owls, and troops of Mantled Howler monkeys. We have now embarked on a wilderness experience rarely possible in a modern world bursting with humanity.

Days 5-6, Monday & Tuesday, March 7-8. The Valley of Cana and, Darién National Park. We spend two full days exploring the Valley of Cana, where we will have the opportunity to follow trails along streams and over long abandoned railroad grades. Plumbeous and Swallow-tailed Kites may be seen overhead as we began our search for Red-throated Caracara, Great and Dusky-backed Jacamars, Viridian Dacnis, Dusky-faced Tanager, White-fronted Nunbird, Gray-cheeked Nunlet, and the always elusive Rufous-vented Ground Cuckoo. We will be alert for the presence of antswarms, which provide marvelous chances of seeing Spotted, Bicolored, and Ocellated Antbirds as well as woodcreepers. At the end of the Seteganti Trail, a swim in the Seteganti River is possible. Single Collared Peccaries or herds of White-lipped Peccaries are most often detected by scent, but the latter may make a noisy and disruptive appearance. Tracks of Baird's Tapir are more likely to be seen than the beast itself.

Day 7, Wednesday, March 9. Climb to Mountain Camp. Now that we have become acclimated to life in the jungle, we will pack lightly for an early morning departure to ascend the slopes of Pirre Mountain. Depending on birds seen and trail conditions, this climb from 1,700 ft. at the airstrip to 4,300 ft. at the camp takes 5-6 hours. March is toward the end of the dry season and trail condition should be favorable. Most of the route lies beneath the canopy and an occasional breeze over the ridge mitigates the heat and humidity of the tropics. For those who prefer not to make the climb to the mountain camp, staying at the Cana field station will not be disappointing. In fact, a greater number of species may be encountered on the trails in the foothills and valley with each outing producing gratifying results.

Of course, if you see Yellow-eared or Emerald Toucanets, Tody Motmot, White-ruffed Manakin, or Lemon-spectacled Tanager, your exertions are soon forgotten. Two-person tents are pitched under a thatch-covered pole structure; a few steps away is a spectacular view across the Valley of Cana to the Setetule Mountain Range in the East. Birdwatching from this perch is usually rewarding: a White Hawk soaring over the ravine, a bunch of White-headed Wrens entering a cavity for the night, Crested Guans crash landing, and Brown-headed Spider Monkeys protesting the human intrusion. It is a bit cooler at this elevation and the sleeping pads in the tents have a sheet and light blanket. Breakfast and dinner are prepared by the mountain crew over a campfire using abandoned rails for a grill.

Day 8, Thursday, March 10. Exploration of Serranía de Pirre. After a hot breakfast, we will pack lunches and climb another 1,000 ft. to reach a high point on the ridge. At these higher elevations, we will search for highland endemics: Rufous-cheeked (Pirre) Hummingbird, Pirre Bush-Tanager, and Pirre Warbler. Many other rarely encountered species such as the Tooth-billed Hummingbird, Sharpbill, Varied Solitaire, Golden-headed Quetzal, and Great Curassow are possible.

Day 9, Friday, March 11. Return to Base Camp.After our second night at the Pirre Mountain Camp, we can continue our exploration of the "elfin forest" of Pirre before beginning our descent to the Cana field station. Some species, such as the Yellow-green Grosbeak, occupy a narrow elevation range where they are locally common. Spectacled Owls have been seen on previous descents and we will have time to study mixed flocks containing some familiar warblers as well as tropical residents.

Day 10, Saturday, March12. Day long trek along the Boca de Cupe Trail. This final full day provides an opportunity for an extended hike along the old railroad grade leading to Boca de Cupe on the Tuira River. This is the trail used by the camp staff to travel to the village of Boca de Cupe about 30 miles to the north. Most visitors to Cana do not have time to walk more than a mile or two along this trail. A new trail has been established to “Rio Grande” in the Valley of Cana. On our March trip in 2004, we discovered a daytime roost of Mottled Owls and a kinkajou peering from a tree cavity.

Day 11, Sunday, March 13. Flight from Cana to Panama City and transfer to your hotel in Panama City. On this final morning in the valley of Cana, we have time to re-visit our favorite spots and to take a last look at the long-abandoned mining railroad. Four species of macaws have now become familiar and the runway seems like our parade ground, but then the sound of the approaching airplane will signal the conclusion of our stay at Cana. Arriving back in the city amidst the traffic and throngs of people, you will feel as if you have returned from a distant planet. But hot water and a modern hotel room will seem luxurious indeed. This will conclude our scheduled itinerary for our Darién birding adventure. Arrangements can be made for additional travel in Central and Western Panama. Overnight Executive Hotel.

INCLUDED IN THE COST OF THIS TOUR:
Hotel transfers to and from Tocumen International Airport, lodging and meals in Panama City and Gamboa. All ground transportation. Charter flight to and from Cana, lodging at Cana Field Station and Pirre Mountain camp, all meals, and park entrance fees are included. The services of porters, guides, and tour leader are also included.  

NOT INCLUDED IN THE COST OF THIS TOUR:
International travel to and from Panama City (we will be glad to assist with international airline ticketing), alcoholic beverages, laundry, or personal items are not included. Tips to guides and camp staff are at your discretion. Also, not included are a fee for a tourist card ($5-obtainable from airline) and an airport departure tax ($20).

WEIGHT LIMIT:
On the charter flight to Cana, there is a weight limit of 25 pounds for checked items. Luggage may be left with Ancon Expeditions in Panama City and retrieved on return. Both Allen and Rick will have scopes.

TRAVEL WARNING: The U.S. State Department has issued a Travel Advisory for portions of the Darien Province of Panama due to its proximity to the Colombian border. It cautions against traveling alone or in small groups beyond Yaviza, i.e., the roadless portion of the province.

We believe the State Department has greatly overstated the dangers of travel in the Darien. The field station operated by Ancon Expeditions at Cana is the jewel in the crown of Panama's birdwatching sites and has been visited by hundreds if not thousands of visitors eager to experience first hand the abundant wildlife and pristine jungle at this remote location. We have stayed at Cana many times and have neither seen nor heard any evidence to suggest there is any danger. While the border with Colombia is nearby, the rugged terrain and distance to lines of communication and settlement make it a highly unlikely target for any illegal or guerilla activity.